Welcome to DU! The truly grassroots left-of-center political community where regular people, not algorithms, drive the discussions and set the standards. Join the community: Create a free account Support DU (and get rid of ads!): Become a Star Member Latest Breaking News Editorials & Other Articles General Discussion The DU Lounge All Forums Issue Forums Culture Forums Alliance Forums Region Forums Support Forums Help & Search

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 11:49 AM Feb 2013

This message was self-deleted by its author

This message was self-deleted by its author (warrior1) on Sat May 11, 2013, 11:35 AM. When the original post in a discussion thread is self-deleted, the entire discussion thread is automatically locked so new replies cannot be posted.

41 replies = new reply since forum marked as read
Highlight: NoneDon't highlight anything 5 newestHighlight 5 most recent replies
This message was self-deleted by its author (Original Post) warrior1 Feb 2013 OP
Red Pine is my guess. NYC_SKP Feb 2013 #1
wood is soft and very easy to sand warrior1 Feb 2013 #2
If the grain is wide (as it appears to be) you may get inconsistent results. X_Digger Feb 2013 #4
I didn't want to go with new doors, etc. warrior1 Feb 2013 #6
Right, the biggest investment is elbow grease. X_Digger Feb 2013 #8
I'm using 80 grit with a sander, and finishing with 220. warrior1 Feb 2013 #9
Well definitely keep us updated. Did you take a 'before' shot for comparison? ;) n/t X_Digger Feb 2013 #10
Yes. warrior1 Feb 2013 #14
Looks like clear pine / spruce n/t X_Digger Feb 2013 #3
looks like pine to me. Tuesday Afternoon Feb 2013 #5
Where you live makes a difference. dixiegrrrrl Feb 2013 #7
When we were doing remodeling full time (before my shoulders gave out), we mbperrin Feb 2013 #11
What's marine grade varnish? warrior1 Feb 2013 #13
Also called Spar Varnish jeff47 Feb 2013 #16
You can also get bowling alley varnish Warpy Feb 2013 #17
I live in Sacramento. Home was built in the 1940's. The bones of the house are redwood. warrior1 Feb 2013 #12
My cabinets have been yellow, white, turquoise, white, pink, green, Warpy Feb 2013 #18
I wondered, might have guessed redwood. NYC_SKP Feb 2013 #19
What really bugs me warrior1 Feb 2013 #15
I'd go with red pine as well. sinkingfeeling Feb 2013 #20
This is the project to date. warrior1 Mar 2013 #21
Nice! I prefer natural wood to painted, personally. X_Digger Mar 2013 #22
I wish the pine was all the same color warrior1 Mar 2013 #23
Yeah, getting them stained to the same (non-dark) color would be a challenge. X_Digger Mar 2013 #24
I used to mix and sell paint. Chan790 May 2013 #41
I've never heard of either of those. warrior1 Mar 2013 #25
Hey guys warrior1 Mar 2013 #26
It's amazing what a fresh coat of paint, well-applied, and new hardware will do. Looking good! n/t X_Digger Mar 2013 #27
Very Very Nice Wash. state Desk Jet Mar 2013 #28
Thanks. warrior1 Mar 2013 #29
I think so too Wash. state Desk Jet Mar 2013 #30
For the first coat if you use what is called clear sander/sealer it isn't that hard to sand madokie Mar 2013 #32
Having built several sets of cabinets madokie Mar 2013 #31
Ok the bottom is done warrior1 Mar 2013 #33
Looks very, very nice! Adsos Letter Apr 2013 #36
Message auto-removed williamsbart Mar 2013 #34
Message auto-removed Name removed Apr 2013 #35
Hey guys warrior1 Apr 2013 #37
Progress! warrior1 Apr 2013 #38
Looking good ! Wash. state Desk Jet Apr 2013 #39
This message was self-deleted by its author warrior1 May 2013 #40
 

NYC_SKP

(68,644 posts)
1. Red Pine is my guess.
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 11:55 AM
Feb 2013

Obviously not a hard wood, looks like Redwood but that's unlikely.

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
2. wood is soft and very easy to sand
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 11:58 AM
Feb 2013

Home built in 1940. This is all original. I just can't afford to install new cabinets so I am just going to refinish. Is staining a good idea?

X_Digger

(18,585 posts)
4. If the grain is wide (as it appears to be) you may get inconsistent results.
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 12:51 PM
Feb 2013

If you go with a darker stain, it'll be more even. A walnut or dark mahogany would probably even out, but a cherry, or golden color would likely leave a lot of variation (which could look good, but may not be to your taste.)

Have you thought about just getting new doors and drawer fronts? Assuming the carcasses and face frames are in good shape, that's one way to make a cabinet look new.

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
6. I didn't want to go with new doors, etc.
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 01:02 PM
Feb 2013

Once I get all of the paint off I think I'll have a better idea of how to finish. I wish I could afford that, I just can't right now.

X_Digger

(18,585 posts)
8. Right, the biggest investment is elbow grease.
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 01:08 PM
Feb 2013

Assuming you don't find any knotty wood under the paint from a previous replacement, it should look pretty good when finished.

My wife and I are looking at replacing some 80's doors / drawer fronts, and paint grade shaker-style poplar doors came out to about $14-$17 per door.

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
9. I'm using 80 grit with a sander, and finishing with 220.
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 01:12 PM
Feb 2013

One drawer takes less than 1/2 hour to remove the paint.

Assuming you don't find any knotty wood under the paint from a previous replacement, it should look pretty good when finished.


That's what I'm hoping.

X_Digger

(18,585 posts)
10. Well definitely keep us updated. Did you take a 'before' shot for comparison? ;) n/t
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 01:14 PM
Feb 2013

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
14. Yes.
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 01:37 PM
Feb 2013

I'll post more pictures as I progress.

X_Digger

(18,585 posts)
3. Looks like clear pine / spruce n/t
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 12:45 PM
Feb 2013

Tuesday Afternoon

(56,912 posts)
5. looks like pine to me.
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 12:59 PM
Feb 2013

dixiegrrrrl

(60,011 posts)
7. Where you live makes a difference.
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 01:04 PM
Feb 2013

Down here in the South, pine is a common wood used, and my 54 year old house has solid pine floors and cabinets.
They are a golden red.
On the West coast, you find a lot of Douglas fir.

mbperrin

(7,672 posts)
11. When we were doing remodeling full time (before my shoulders gave out), we
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 01:15 PM
Feb 2013

had many requests for paint removal from pine cabinets and then simply refinish them with a marine grade varnish. They looked great, and the variance in the grains is a sure sign it's real wood, not some laminate photo.

Goes to the character of the house.

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
13. What's marine grade varnish?
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 01:23 PM
Feb 2013

jeff47

(26,549 posts)
16. Also called Spar Varnish
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 03:22 PM
Feb 2013

Works better than "normal" polyurethane or varnish in areas that can get wet. Since it was originally meant for finishing boats, hence marine varnish.

Warpy

(113,131 posts)
17. You can also get bowling alley varnish
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 05:19 PM
Feb 2013

it's what I used to finish my rug loom and it's stood up for 20 years now, even on the treadles.

However, for cabinets, I'd be a lot more inclined to use one of the water based varnishes. The feeling is that they're not quite as durable, but I've had floors finished with it and they're also holding up well. The advantage is that you won't have to do most of the stuff outdoors and the cabinets themselves on a hot day with the windows open and an exhaust fan going. Oil based varnish stinks.

Just be aware that those old pine cabinets often look a lot better painted. I tried stripping my 1946 cabinets down when I first moved in here and came to that conclusion.

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
12. I live in Sacramento. Home was built in the 1940's. The bones of the house are redwood.
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 01:21 PM
Feb 2013

I have plaster walls. The kitchen had hideous yellow and blue tile counter tops and back splash. I replaced with laminate counter top and had (2003) repainted the cabinets. They've always been white. Before I bought the house in 1997 someone had replace the floor with 8 inch white ceramic tiles with wide grout lines. Thankfully they are dark as you can see in the picture above. So I'm dealing with a pretty white kitchen and I frankly sick of. It needs more warm colors.

Warpy

(113,131 posts)
18. My cabinets have been yellow, white, turquoise, white, pink, green,
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 05:21 PM
Feb 2013

beige and then kind of a cruddy looking off white. I went with white.

 

NYC_SKP

(68,644 posts)
19. I wondered, might have guessed redwood.
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 07:44 PM
Feb 2013

I looks like redwood, which is soft and not a choice wood for cabinets but was so common in Sacramento in the era of your home, which looks like early 20th, so even though I guessed Red Pine earlier, I might guess Redwood because of where you are.

...

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
15. What really bugs me
Sun Feb 10, 2013, 01:43 PM
Feb 2013

is all of the hinges in this house were painted over. I will be replacing most of them.

Before kitchen

[IMG][/IMG]

This is my finished hutch in the dining room.

[IMG][/IMG]

sinkingfeeling

(53,268 posts)
20. I'd go with red pine as well.
Mon Feb 11, 2013, 12:25 PM
Feb 2013

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
21. This is the project to date.
Sun Mar 3, 2013, 10:16 AM
Mar 2013

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
Here is the color for the walls:

It's call Tangier Island and is a Ralph Lauren color they use to carry at Home Depot. They still carry the color but not the brand.

The top color is TI in semi gloss, left is TI in flat and right is TI in eggshell (way different). The color chip is Navaho white. I will be going with the TI in semi gloss.


New handles and knobs will be polished nickel

X_Digger

(18,585 posts)
22. Nice! I prefer natural wood to painted, personally.
Sun Mar 3, 2013, 12:24 PM
Mar 2013

I could see a dark stain really making them pop.

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
23. I wish the pine was all the same color
Sun Mar 3, 2013, 12:40 PM
Mar 2013

and for the style of this old home I will be going to use white again. I think with the color of the walls it will tone down the really white kitchen I had.

X_Digger

(18,585 posts)
24. Yeah, getting them stained to the same (non-dark) color would be a challenge.
Sun Mar 3, 2013, 12:58 PM
Mar 2013

Thought about a lime wash or a milk paint?

 

Chan790

(20,176 posts)
41. I used to mix and sell paint.
Sat May 11, 2013, 12:28 PM
May 2013

That Tangiers Island in eggshell is clearly a mis-mix, it looks like they used the wrong paint-base. That's what you'd get in terms of hue if you accidentally swapped the pastel base for deep base. (Deep base contains less pigment thus more of the tint shows, pastel base is extremely-heavy on white pigment to make the colors more off-white.)

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
25. I've never heard of either of those.
Sun Mar 3, 2013, 01:02 PM
Mar 2013

I'll be priming and painting with Sherman Williams ProClassic Waterborne Interior Arcrylic Semi-Gloss.

Probably in Swiss Coffee. Another name for white.

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
26. Hey guys
Fri Mar 22, 2013, 10:04 AM
Mar 2013

still working on my project but with colder weather I'm unable to paint the doors (doing in the garage). But this is the state of it so for. I've painted the kitchen and order the sink and faucet. I'll be changing the counter top to different color. It will also be laminate. I like how the new handles are working. Here's a current picture. I'll be working on the moulding and probably painting the upper boxes next week if the weather doesn't get warmer. The lower doors under the sink are almost completed.

[IMG][/IMG]

X_Digger

(18,585 posts)
27. It's amazing what a fresh coat of paint, well-applied, and new hardware will do. Looking good! n/t
Fri Mar 22, 2013, 11:10 AM
Mar 2013

Wash. state Desk Jet

(3,426 posts)
28. Very Very Nice
Sat Mar 23, 2013, 03:56 PM
Mar 2013

You should be very proud of yourself for the work you put into restoring your kitchen .There is much beauty in your work. In my opinion what you have done is first rate all the way. I imagine glass doors one day on your upper cabinets to up lift your kitchen . There is indeed lots of potential in what you have. You do really great work.

Thanks for sharing.

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
29. Thanks.
Sat Mar 23, 2013, 04:17 PM
Mar 2013

The upper doors unfortunately will be solid wood. Opinions on using glass was ruled out. It would have been nice, but I'm afraid that I just didn't feel confident to try that. The other set of doors under the sink should be finished tomorrow. Pain is I have to sand between each coat for a smooth surface. Well, relative smooth surface. The upper doors I do not think I will sand down to bare wood. The pine was a problem. But I do feel that the finished product will hold up over time.

Wash. state Desk Jet

(3,426 posts)
30. I think so too
Sat Mar 23, 2013, 05:09 PM
Mar 2013

As will all the hard work you put into it.
Again ,very very nice.

madokie

(51,076 posts)
32. For the first coat if you use what is called clear sander/sealer it isn't that hard to sand
Mon Mar 25, 2013, 03:45 AM
Mar 2013

and the rest of the coats of finish you put on will only take a small amount of sanding if any. I personally like to use a wipe-on poly urethane as it goes on so easy in comparison to brushing and leaves a smooth finish. I like satin rather than gloss but thats just my preference.
At any rate those will be beautiful
You can also have new doors and drawer fronts made and the last ones I had made, 10 years ago, cost me 25 bucks for the doors and 7 bucks for the drawer fronts.

madokie

(51,076 posts)
31. Having built several sets of cabinets
Mon Mar 25, 2013, 03:38 AM
Mar 2013

back when I was younger and sub contracting cabinet building and from my experience then I would say these are made using white pine. Its a good soft wood to work with that takes stain or paint well. Especially good if the plan is to paint them.
Only wood that I would consider to be as good as white pine is white maple. White maple is also pretty if its left natural with a clear finish.
That looks like white pine.

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
33. Ok the bottom is done
Wed Mar 27, 2013, 06:00 PM
Mar 2013

except for the new counter top, sink, faucet, back splash and ceiling light.

The top boxes have been painted as well as the walls. Tomorrow will be the frames around the windows and baseboards. I just have five doors to sand, paint and install. Oh and clean the hinges of all the paint that was previous painted over.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Adsos Letter

(19,459 posts)
36. Looks very, very nice!
Thu Apr 4, 2013, 07:38 PM
Apr 2013

Last edited Thu Apr 4, 2013, 11:52 PM - Edit history (1)

If the old paint on your hinges is latex, alcohol will remove it no matter how old the paint. Just be careful not to get it on the freshly painted surfaces.

If it's old oil base, lacquer thinner should remove it although you'll have to work on it a bit harder. Same caution about getting it on the new coating applies.

Response to warrior1 (Original post)

Response to warrior1 (Original post)

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
37. Hey guys
Sun Apr 7, 2013, 09:19 AM
Apr 2013

I found a pretty cool trick to removed paint from hinges.

Here's the video I used. Still a little of elbow grease, but with out the danger of fumes that paint stripping chemicals have.

warrior1

(12,325 posts)
38. Progress!
Sat Apr 20, 2013, 11:21 AM
Apr 2013

[URL=.html][IMG][/IMG][/URL]

[URL=.html][IMG][/IMG][/URL]

All painting is done. Finally. Got the counter top, sink and faucet installed. Still need to look for a back splash. I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

Wash. state Desk Jet

(3,426 posts)
39. Looking good !
Sun Apr 21, 2013, 12:12 AM
Apr 2013

I really like that particular counter top design and color and your faucet is the perfect selection for your house.

Getting close to completion,good for you !

Very nice.

Response to warrior1 (Original post)

Latest Discussions»Culture Forums»DIY & Home Improvement»This message was self-del...