So...now that I finished those concrete steps, a question...

[Adsos Letter]

How can I attach full-size brick to the face and top of the low wall/curb, and the somewhat taller planter box? Brilliantine here forgot to place any ties/fasteners in those areas, and I'm not sure mortar will do the job over the long haul (maybe even the short haul).

One of the guys at Lowe's suggested polyurethane construction adhesive for the back of the brick where it contacts the wall.

Anyone done anything like this, or know anything about it?

[IMG][/IMG]

[jeff47]

1. We used regular mortar, and some metal straps pounded into the wall and placed between the bricks.

[Adsos Letter]

2. Thanks for responding

When you say "pounded into the wall"...how? The metal straps I have seen are very thin and are meant to be placed prior to pouring; or, are meant to be set in the mortar joints of CBU walls. Did you use CBU, or was it a solid concrete structure?

[jeff47]

3. We've used either wood walls or concrete walls.

The strap was bent in an "L" shape, so that one leg was on the wall, and the other leg went between two rows of bricks. The "between bricks" leg was anchored in place by mortar as the brick wall was built. It was short enough so that it did not show through the surface of the mortar.

The "wall" side of the anchor was attached by nails. Either wood nails for a wooden wall, or concrete nails for a concrete wall.

The frequency of the straps will depend on factors like your local climate, and if you face problems like earthquakes.

[Adsos Letter]

4. Thanks, jeff47!

Is there a time window on nailing into freshly poured concrete? It's been up less than a week.

[jeff47]

5. Not really.

Concrete nails are designed to go into completely cured concrete. Going into concrete that has not completely finished curing should not matter.

[X_Digger]

7. I wouldn't put an expansion fastener into uncured concrete, though.

A tapcon or spiral galvanized concrete nails? Probably okay as long as you don't pound the heck out of them.

I'd probably play it safe and wait for a month or so, but I try to be conservative in such things.

[Tuesday Afternoon]

6. Are you sure it needs it? I sorta like the look of it as is ...

because of the brick on the house?

[Adsos Letter]

10. Partially...but primarily because my wife really, really...

really liked the look of the brick on the original path, and I'm trying to find a way to reintroduce it because I know she liked it so much.

[dixiegrrrrl]

8. Just a thought here....

a row of short spreading evergreen shrubs along the top of the cement walls would drape nicely over the "bare" of the walk walls, and if you repeated the same type of short spreading drap-y palntings into the dirt bed to the left of the walkway below the tree.....the contrast in color, texture would soften the cement and add interest to the walk to the door.
That might be an alternative to brick or an addition to the brick effect.
Other perennials could be interspersed among the line of plans, too.

I am a 'soft scape' kind of person..

[Adsos Letter]

11. Yes, I see what you mean.

I'm sure I'll put more plantings around it, but somehow I need to reintroduce the brick because my wife liked it so much, and I promised her I would do it.

I try to pick my battles...

[dixiegrrrrl]

16. I understand.

[X_Digger]

9. Bonding agent and a scratch coat?

Is it going to be a veneer brick, or a full depth 'real' brick? If 'real', I'd think that's a tad more challenging.

[Adsos Letter]

12. Real brick...

These guys:

[IMG][/IMG]


They made up the old walkway. They were set without mortar, so they just need some scrubbing with a stiff brush, and water.

Part of the reason is to be economical in my material costs, but mostly it's because my wife really, really, really liked the look of the brick in front, so I promised to re-introduce it on the wall and planter. And, in that same vein, I set the top of the wall low enough so that the brick cap would be level with the grass behind it.

Thanks for the heads up on expansion bolts in fresh concrete.

[X_Digger]

13. Did you include a ledge in the pour for them to sit on?

If so, I'd think you'd be fine with just concrete nailing in some straps (my opinion would be to wait for a while, though.)

[Adsos Letter]

14. Yes, there is a small footing for just that purpose around the base of the planter

And the walkway will act as the footing for the wall.

When it comes to nails, etc., I was hoping to avoid poking any holes in it; on the other hand, as an old painter I'm cautious about applying coatings, glues, etc., to a surface where partial failure might be an issue and, in this case, I'm thinking of moisture migration from the back side.

Sometimes I confuse myself...

[X_Digger]

15. Well, if you're in a warm climate, I probably wouldn't bother w/ wall ties..

But if you have cycles of frost/thaw, I can imagine snow / water heaving the bricks away from the planters.

eta: And in any case, I'd suggest weeping holes at the bottom to let moisture out.