The first in a series-DO IT YOURSELF HINT # 1

[digonswine]

When finishing drywall--Never, EVER, under any circumstances, use mud from a bucket.
Just don't do it.
It may seem easier at first-but is sucks in every way.
Just mix small bunches of the dry stuff. Practice to get the right consistency-you should be able to stick a bunch on a knife and turn it over--if it stays for 5 seconds--it's probably good.

WHY??--Bucket mud "sets" by drying over many hours. Fine-NO!!!-Anything wet that dries ends up shrinking.
ALWAYS. That is how bucket mud "sets."

The mixed stuff undergoes a chemical reaction. It does not "dry" to set-it does its thing and hardens-usually within 1/2 an hour.
You don't have to wait.
This means--not only do you not have to deal with shrinking crap-you also get to finish the job the same day!

Oh yeah--just clean up your tool after each batch. Learn from my mistakes.

[NYC_SKP]

1. Since we're on the topic of drywall... No sanding!

Any skilled plasterer/taper and even a newbie with a little patience can use their tools to never put up more material than necessary.

SOME people, including some "professionals" actually sand all the time.

It should never need to be done in new drywall construction.

There should be a law.

Next week: Duct tape. Unless you are working on ducts, put the shit away.

[digonswine]

2. Right-

I am not a professional-just a dude that owns an old home that did things incorrectly for most of the rooms.

The idea of no sanding is that(I think), when the (non-bucket) mud is near to being dry, you simply take the 10 or 12 inch knife and scrape off any lumps. Like you shave it off.

BTW-this series of hints will be based upon my mistakes-not any expertise.

[NYC_SKP]

4. Yes, shaving any high spots is ok.

Better, of course, to never put on too much.

Lazy folk put on extra and sand it flat, while craftspeople learn to put on just enough, or are willing to come back for a second or third shot.

On new walls over new framing, I typically needed two passes to get it right, or three if it's going to be a high gloss finish bath or kitchen.

It's been a while, but I still have my tools!

[digonswine]

6. Yup-

don't call them lazy folk, though. It takes much more effort to do it wrong!
Trust me, I know. My sanding arm looks like Popeye's after a can of spinach(read-methamphetamine)

[Adsos Letter]

7. Three floats, with successively larger blades.

On smooth wall we generally did four floats over the tape seams and nail heads, then sprayed a full covering coat of USG's First Coat, or Sherwin-Williams High Build drywall primer.

On some very high-end smooth wall jobs the tapers would skim coat the whole wall as their final step, and we would come in and shoot either the High Build or the First Coat.

After that, we used a screen on a sanding stick, using just enough pressure on the stick to keep the screen on the wall. It goes very quickly, leaves no dust, and provides an excellent base for a beautiful finish, especially in rooms where lighting was very unforgiving.

[Betsy Ross]

3. Thanks. I learned a lot.

I don't expect to do much more drywall, but if I do, I'll keep your words in mind.

[digonswine]

5. I just wish someone had told ME!

Some of my walls look like a large field after a blustery snowstorm.

[Hassin Bin Sober]

8. I've been having this fight with my brother on a kitchen job we are doing.

He likes the bucket mud (green top) and tape for first two coats and the the blue top plus 3 for final coat(s).

I like the dry mix (hot mud) easy sand with mesh tape. And dry mix easy sand for all coats.

He has a point that the bucket mud is workable longer and you aren't racing the set time. Also mixing small batches of dry mix AND cleaning in between is very time consuming.

His was IS the way most tapers do it.

I like the dry mix because you can do more in one day. By the same token, often times the day runs out before you can re coat any way. There have been times i scrambled around to apply fast set and run ouf day and have to leave it over night anyway. So there's that.

My biggest contention is the dry mix stuff is more durable. I've seen pros say you can even skip tape in some applications when using the hot mud.

From my experience: you can do hot mud with either paper tape or mesh but the bucket mud REQUIRES paper tape. I tried bucket mud with mesh in my own house and got hairline cracks and had to dig them out and fill with hot mud. Also, if you use hot mud and tape you have to be quick. You don't want stiff mud under tape as you will get a lump.

The hot mud does shrink though. The faster setting stuff sets before it shrinks but the 90 and 45 minute shrinks.

I think, for me going forward, it will be hot mud and mesh for first two coats and Plus 3 tinted yellow pre-mixed box mud for final coat. The final coat is so thin it dries quick any way so fast setting is not really necessary. The first two coats of hot mud on day one and final thin pre-mixed on day two. Even the hot mud has to dry the water out after it sets before you can paint (unless you are doing a small job you can apply heat to) so there is going to be at least another day.

That premixed Plus 3 tinted in the cardboard box is really nice to work. It's really creamy. The tint is a nice feature when you sand so you can see where you are going.

[digonswine]

9. I am not in any way a professional.

All the dudes I know, that actually do this for a living, use the dry stuff. It pisses me off that they are so fast and don't need to sand at all. Maybe it has to do with what part of the country you are in?
I'm actually pretty good at it now that I have made every mistake in the book. I consider this old place a "learning house"-except I plan to live here for a long time.