Welcome to DU! The truly grassroots left-of-center political community where regular people, not algorithms, drive the discussions and set the standards. Join the community: Create a free account Support DU (and get rid of ads!): Become a Star Member Latest Breaking News Editorials & Other Articles General Discussion The DU Lounge All Forums Issue Forums Culture Forums Alliance Forums Region Forums Support Forums Help & Search
 

LiberalEsto

(22,845 posts)
Sun Apr 22, 2012, 06:22 PM Apr 2012

Bathtub dilemma

We have a 1967 pink bathtub that has seen better days. The surface has worn off in one spot.
My son-in-law is going to remodel the bathroom, including removing old tile and drywall, and putting up new water-resistant drywall.
We're hoping to find tile at the Habitat ReStore. We have limited finances.

I am not sure whether to replace the tub, have it painted with tub paint, or something else.

I've heard that tub paint smells horrible for days. But moving the old tub out sounds like a very hard job and I'm not sure if the plumbing connections will match up with the new tub..

I'd be grateful for any suggestions.

8 replies = new reply since forum marked as read
Highlight: NoneDon't highlight anything 5 newestHighlight 5 most recent replies

Response to LiberalEsto (Original post)

jeff47

(26,549 posts)
2. Tubs have been standard for a very, very long time
Sun Apr 22, 2012, 11:10 PM
Apr 2012

So the plumbing should line up. As a sibling poster mentioned, the only built-in plumbing is the drain, and the drain parts have a good amount of play in them to line up to the tub.

The main thing you found in tubs from the 60s that you can not find today are "closed end" tubs. Today, all tubs are constructed as if there are walls on 3 sides of the tub. Back in the 60s, you could get tubs that only needed 2 walls - one of the short sides was finished and meant to be seen. So if you currently have a closed-end tub and want to replace it, you'll have to build at least a short wall on that end. This can be a big problem in that there's often not enough room to add a wall - it effectively makes your tub 2-5" longer.

One other factor if you pull the tub is you will have to replace at least the bottom row of tile, if the walls are tiled. If they're not tile, you will probably have to replace the entire tub surround.

Painting prevents these problems, obviously. But in my experience paint is just extending the life of the tub - it's not going to last anywhere near as long as a new tub. Actual time will depend on how often the tub is used. At that point, you'd have to paint again or replace the tub.

As for the smell, I'd recommend keeping the door closed, the window open, and a fan in the window blowing out. The more air you can get through the room the faster the smell will go away.

Warpy

(113,131 posts)
3. I used the tub paint
Mon Apr 23, 2012, 12:51 AM
Apr 2012

and it got brittle over time, failing in about 5 years.

The smell was awful, but open windows and an exhaust fan cured it.

If I wanted to keep the tub (which I don't, it's hard to get into for a shower and too shallow for anyone over the age of five), I'd get a company to fabricate a once piece tub and fibreglas insert and install it. Taken care of, that would likely last a lifetime, fitted over the tub and very sturdy. The main problem with fibreglas is the fact that it scratches, so clear liquid cleaners should be used, not abrasives.

The fibreglas inserts, while pricey, are cheaper than replacing the tub and will give decades of service. It's actually the most economical way of dealing with an unsightly tub in a more or less permanent way.

Hassin Bin Sober

(26,798 posts)
4. If you decide to tile, please re-think the use of "water resistant" drywall in the tub area.
Mon Apr 23, 2012, 12:35 PM
Apr 2012

That stuff sucks. It's hardly water resistant and if WILL fail.

Stick with a cement based board like Durarock of Hardie Backer (both sold at Home Depot). I prefer the Hardie backer.

Use a sheet plastic vapor barrier over the studs. Drape the vapor barrier over the edge of the tub and install your wall cement board using recommended screws (not drywall screws). Trim the excess plastic protruding under the cement board. Fill the seams in with thinset and mesh (alkali resistant) tape.

You should be able to find your tile, grout AND thinset at Habitat. Last couple times I was in a Habitat store they hand tons of the tile and thinset. You will probably find the powdered thinset that requires mixing but the powdered is superior to the bucket pre-mixed thinset anyway (and cheaper). Heck, you can probably find a tub as well. And caulk (stick with 100% silicone).

Let us know how you make out.

mopinko

(71,998 posts)
7. ^^^ what he said ^^^
Mon Apr 30, 2012, 08:02 AM
Apr 2012

hardibacker is much easier to work with than durock. it will last for a very, very long time, and in the average bathroom the cost difference will be minimal.

femmocrat

(28,394 posts)
5. How about Bathfitter?
Wed Apr 25, 2012, 07:54 PM
Apr 2012

It's an acrylic liner system. I haven't seen them, but my SIL had it installed in her mother's old bathroom and she was happy with it.

 

LiberalEsto

(22,845 posts)
8. Update: we decided to put in a new tub
Wed May 9, 2012, 03:18 PM
May 2012

We ordered it via Lowe's and picked it up yesterday. My son-in-law pointed out that replacing the tub would improve the resale value of the house. The tub's an acrylic American Standard 5 foot soaker tub, cost a bit over $300.
I can hardly wait to try it out. The old tub is so ooky that nobody has wanted to bathe in it for years.

Latest Discussions»Culture Forums»DIY & Home Improvement»Bathtub dilemma